One of my favorite things to do is home renovations and repurpose pieces. Please keep in mind that in the photo first photo above, I bleached my wood prior to applying the liming wax. The second picture presents the what the wood looked like prior to doing anything (left hand side of pic that looks like orange tones). To initiate the bleaching process, I used some foaming oven cleaner by applying it on the area thoroughly and letting it sit for 30 minutes. Then, I took a bucket of water and added some dawn dish detergent in it. With my scrubbing brush, I scrubbed off the oven cleaner with the dawn/water mix. Then, I sprayed it all down with my water hose. Once it dried, I took half Clorox and half water to penetrate the entire cabinet and let it dry in the sun (can repeat both processes to get desired outcome). Even after doing this, my cabinet still had a yellow tint (as you can see in the top of the first pic). I tried multiple different supposedly "clear" waxes from Lowes - It just seemed to turn it more yellow, which resulted in having to sand the area. I was AMAZED when I applied this stuff. Seriously, I will be a forever customer!!! I mean just look how beautiful it turned out!!

First off, I purchased this for a DIY project at home. Changed the 1990 oak cabinets in our powder room to a more updated natural state and I'm pleased with the results.Cons: Smell.Wear a mask , wear gloves, ventilate the room,and get the kiddos and pets out of there while using this product.Performance and ease of use: I did NOT apply using a rag. Heavens no! Unless you are looking to truly turn your furniture white.I used a waxing brush and stroked it on following the grain of the wood with a dry brush technique. Please note you have to sand off the shiny surface of your furniture before applying this product.It dries to the touch fairly quickly and can be wiped off with a rag if you apply too much. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY! Use a dry rag to buff off the crumbs and smooth the finish.Seal with a clear wax or expect it to wear off over time.Clean up: Easy brush clean up using mineral spirits. Then wash your brush with dawn soap afterwards and rinse well with water.Would I purchase again? YES

I'm an amateur weekend DIYer and have now used liming wax for two different projects. I find that it is very forgiving and great for covering imperfections/mistakes. I especially love that it's a buildable product so you can achieve many different looks by either buffing more away or layering more product on. Things to be aware of are: drying/curing time, strong fumes (similar to paint), practicing your technique with various tools before attempting your project and being realistic about your finished look. This product is great at settling into "cracks" or grooves of furniture however it will shrink as it cures and could flake over time. Pictured is a plank wall we recently did in our nursery. The spacing between the boards wasn't as consistent as we would have hoped and you could see some of the original paint peaking through. It took about 2 cans of liming wax, 6ish hours and a lot of elbow grease to do the whole wall but we were happy with the finished product. I have not used another brand of liming wax but like the usability of this product.

I used this to refinish a number of late 1800's oak tables, dressers and other furniture items that we shipped back from Belgium for our store Adore in downtown Mystic, CT. It was very easy to use but if it is your first time, be sure to watch some videos.I have only used it with old oak, which has nice pores to hold the wax. I highly recommend stripping and sanding the piece down thoroughly, and then use a brass brush to really work the powder out of the pores. I use large, flat brass brushes for the flat areas and small toothbrush-sized for the detail areas. I apply the wax with a cloth, and gently rub off excess after a few minutes. Note that the wood will appear hazy at this point. I found if you try to clean it too soon, you remove too much of the wax in the pores. For me, waiting a 8 hrs seemed to do the trick. I would then use a clear wax and a wax polishing brush on my drill to remove the haze. 3 to 4 coats of clear wax later and a few day to cure and you have something beautiful.All the wood I refinished was of the same approximate age, over 100 years and very hard so, I can't say how newer wood will react. So, experiment!

The results were as good as expected. Which is good because the price was ridiculous, but I couldn't find it anywhere in Canada.

Love the product!

Great stuff - lots of fun to be creative with for different looks. For example, I wanted an aged/antique look for some pine wainscoting for my home office remodel. I'd purchased a pile of T&G 1x6 pine boards from a lumber yard that had left them out to weather in the sun for an extended period. They were grayish and a little dirty on the roughsawn side - a great starting point. I knocked down the fibers just a bit with some 220 paper and then applied the liming wax with a rag in blotches across the boards not worrying about evenness. The trick was the next step - I used a very common plastic bristle brush (maybe 2"x6" -- the kind you'd clean your tires with or scrub your floors with in the old days) to spread and even out the wax through all of the nocks, crannies, and knots. It worked great and it was quite fast! And you don't get splinters using the brush like you would if you'd used a rag. Caution: if you use a lot of the wax at once over a large surface area there will be a strong petroleum odor until it dries/hardens/outgasses because it is a wax. I went through 4 cans of the Liming wax and also used it on the drawer fronts of a built-in unit to match the wainscoting.Experiment on test pieces for different looks - much depends on the underlying wood (i.e. maple would be boring while the open pores of oak would hold the wax well - like a pickeling stain does). On rough sawn wood, it's terrific.