First off, before I bought this I read many reviews and did a lot of research. What I have found in research on so many items is that you have to believe a review in which someone has the same views, skills and knowledge as yourself or that you can believe through reading the content of their review. I have read many things that just did not bother me or that were really not a big issue at all that some people complained about. Keep that in mind.Pros- This mount was first of all GREAT VALUE. If you are looking for something that is becoming a national landmark, this is not a design for the ages. It is simple, doesn't look terrible by all means and very functional.- Some people have complained abut how hard it was to get to the handle to lock it down, to keep the display from tilting forward on its own. I don't get the issue here, it was quite easy.I mounted my TV around 7 ft in the air, above some book cases that I have against the wall in my computer room. I simply set the tv on the mount, latched the two safety devices (one on each side) to make sure the screen didn't pop off and tightened the tilt by pulling the screen out to full extension. You have full access to get to it, nothing stopping you. I don't get that gripe. My tilt holds without issue.- The fit on the crossbars it tight, maybe too tight but that is good for keeping things snug. For me to get the safety latches in place, I literally had to get the big mallet out and beat the crap out of them. The seal on the pieces that mount to the TV were so tight to the cross bars that I could not get them into the final resting position without a good whack, and I have some gorilla grip going on. You have to squeeze real tight with the little latch pushed up to try to get in place and whack it with a mallet. It is super snug which means super safe imo. Seriously, I have a guitar players grip; people with less hand strength might have issues here. Be smart and out think the hardware. It could have been manufacturing not being so precise but if you see it, you know what to do.- Sturdy. I am a big dude and I put some weight against it, no budging.I used a piece of poplar 2 x 8 at 3 ft long to help with centering and support. I believe the mount was something like 6"in height on the base, it was real easy then to get it where I wanted it. 6 large lag screws from the local box store, forget the screws that came with it. I do not like "pretty" black screws when i read that many have had issues with them. I went with "trusted" screws I have used before. Drilled pilots in the wood, then sunk one in the far left through a stud. Stud finders are terrible, so I went into the basement to see which side of the stud the outlet was on that was close by. Did some math for the metal box, drywall ring and then the stud. then measured off this to mark my wall at 16" centers. After sinking the left top, I rolled the wood up without scratching the wall and popped a 24" level on top. When level, I sank the bottom right and brought it tight. Then sank the other 4 and tightened the top left snug. I used a mini impact from my dual DeWalt set; it is better to use a mini impact than a true drill as it will snug everything better. I then used the same formula; marked my top left, pilot. Sink the lag into the frame snug, not too tight.Bottom right using a smaller torpedo level. Snug, then tight watching my level. Then I sank 6 more screws. No reason to be shy here and the cost of time and material is nothing.- Mounting the TV itself was easy. I have a Samsung KU7000 and it has a slightly curved back, yet the TV came with spacers to bring everything flat that worked just fine with the mount. Once the guides were on, I simply had to get the beast on there. I did have my wife help me on this one because of the height of the TV and the sheer size. It was not really hard to get on but I did notice that if you could not get a good view to see where to set it, you push the arms back and end up fighting yourself. Lean back over the edge and look when you are in position. My side went in but she struggled; no worries. Let the one side hang in and just lift the other side enough to drop in place. Hammer the safety latches down and you are gold. I used 2 heavy gauge cable ties through the holes to make sure they do not come out but I can tell you by the pressure, they are going no where.- Cable management. It is quite stiff to get the sides spread out, but it works to keep your cables away from the moving parts of the arms. Warning: if you have a lot of I/O, you might feel some pain here. I only hooked up a cable box, dvd player and ps3 to the TV. This brings 3x hdmi, 1 power cable and I ran cat 6 in as well. This amount of cable is overload already for these little wire ways but they did work for my needs. You may have more cables.- Some people reported their TV sliding as there is no mechanism to keep it centered. Maybe they changed something in the design but i saw nothing like that. No lean, no drooping. It just works. Maybe if you have an uber old plasma, the weight may take more of a toll on the mount. I was good and needed no cable ties, tape or any gadget to keep the TV in the same place.Cons- Cheap screws. Other than the threaded bolts, I would not use them. I was going to get newer ones anyway because of the length added by the 2x8 but they were cheap.- Ok, this is getting low but it is something that hacks me off to no end; if you are going to sell a product here, have someone proof read your instructions book in English before you print it. If I see grammatical errors or even typos, that tells me that some guy is printing this out in his garage and his friend is assembling these in the back yard. Professionalism starts with what people see and although I did chuckle a bit that they had no one to catch these errors, it looks bad. I was able to get past all the failures in the manual but guess what? I build stuff, huge manufacturing plants. Some people may not and will get confused and lost, then angry. Fix it.

For the price, this is awesome. Even disregarding the price, I have no issues, although I'm not naive enough to think that a $300+ mount wouldn't be better. But I had no desire to spend that kind of money, and now that I've purchased, installed, and lived with this mount, I'm extremely glad I chose it. For the record, since Amazon sometimes lists reviews for related products under all such products, here is what I am reviewing, per the current description: VideoSecu Articulating Full Motion TV Wall Mount for 32"-65" LED LCD Plasma TVs with VESA up to 600x400 mm, Dual Arm pulls out up to 25 Inch, with Leveling Adjustments, Bonus 10 ft HDMI Cable A37. (Suggestion to VideoSecu marketing: come up with a shorter name for this, like "V6500". There are so many variations of mounts by each manufacturer, it's VERY confusing!)I chose this mount for 3 reasons:1. It supports the weight. My TV is heavy. It's a 60" Panasonic plasma. Thankfully, it's brand new, meaning lighter than the 60s were a few years ago, but it still weighs 69.5# without the stand. Additionally I added shelf brackets, a shelf, and a heavy (13.5#) Pioneer SP-C22 center speaker), and I'm up around 90#. (More about that below: you might want to consider doing this yourself). I wanted a bracket that was rated for way more than that, both because I wanted a margin of safety, and in case I upgrade in a few years to a larger set (seems inevitable, right?!). This one says it will support up to 150 pounds, and after installing it, I definitely believe it! It's solid!2. It articulates. I wanted it to extend out from the wall, primarily to bring the screen closer to us. After all, the closer the screen is to you, the larger it appears. You could buy a 60" TV and mount it on the wall 12 feet away, or watch a 30" that's 6 feet away, and you'd have the exact same viewing angle. So I wanted my TV as close to us as I could get without it sitting in the middle of the room. The extended arms allow us to do that. We have it extended all the way out, both arms straight and parallel. I'll admit it was unnerving at first. I kept imagining it pulling out of the wall, or the arms cracking, or something, and my $1500 TV crashing down on my $500 receiver, the Blu-ray player, and cable box. But it's not going anywhere. Doesn't even sag. Well, if it does, it's imperceptible, and you can adjust the angle anyway, so if it sagged a tiny bit, it's not an issue. By the way, you will want to loosen this up a bit, preferably before you mount it, but I did it after it was mounted, and it worked out OK. I used WD-40 on all the joints on the arms, and loosened the bolts a little bit. Otherwise, you won't be able to move the arms in and out at all. Which is a good thing. It shows how darned solidly this thing is constructed. Once I let the WD-40 settle in a bit and loosened the nuts just enough, I could get the arms to extend and retract with reasonable force. I doubt I'll do that much, but if I want to retract the TV, I can do so. It won't go flush up against the wall, but will get as close as I need it to. If I wanted it flush, I wouldn't have gone to the expense and trouble to buy an articulating mount! And I still have my little TV stand below it on the floor with the receiver, DVR, and Blu-ray, so it's not like I'm going to gain usable floor space by having it flush against the wall anyway. But one thing this mount does EASILY that I do use already is to move the TV from side to side. If my wife and I are both watching, it's aimed straight ahead, basically aimed in between us. But yesterday I watched a football game I'd recorded last weekend, and I aimed the TV directly at my seat. I can literally push the TV from right to left with pressure from a couple fingers; it's that easy and smooth.3. Cost. I found some really impressive articulating mounts that would do what I wanted and were reviewed extremely highly. They also cost $300 or more. FAIL. I didn't want to hear from my wife how she'd rather use that money for curtains, furniture, or whatever, so I kept looking and researching and finally settled on this mount. I'm glad to say my due diligence was rewarded. This was an excellent choice, and I don't feel like I compromised quality at all. It gets the job done perfectly.After I was done, the TV was ever so slightly slanted; left side 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher than right. Hardly noticeable (I had to point it out to my wife). But after you mount the bracket to the wall and get your TV on to the bracket, it's unlikely that you'll be 100% level. No problem. There are three very heavy duty leveling bolts on the center of the mount where it holds the TV. You loosen the right and left slightly with the included Allen wrench and can fine tune the level, then retighten the bolts.One thing that was very impressive about the mount was the array of hardware included. I have a head start on opening my own hardware store now. They include so many screws, bolts, washers, and what not, for all the various types of TVs and wall fastening situations, that you'll have lots of stuff left. I fastened mine to a brick wall, and they included fasteners for that as well as mounting into studs. I was so paranoid that I went to the hardware store and bought two other kinds of fasteners. My mount is attached to my wall with 8 screws, 3 on the left top, 3 on right top, and one on each of the bottom corners. I KNOW it's overkill, but I've had so much experience with Murphy's Law over the years that I didn't want to tempt fate. The only way I'll ever have a malfunction is if the TV and mount are so heavy they pull the brick wall down! And obviously that's not going to happen.OK, last thing. I wanted my center channel speaker to be right above the TV, flush with the screen, and movable with the TV. In other words, if I swung the TV to the side, I wanted the center speaker to still be right smack in the middle of the TV, just above it. I think above works better for sound than below for two reasons: 1. Faces tend to be in the upper portion of the screen so voices seem to be sourced better if the speaker is above rather than below the TV. 2. My right and left channel speaker towers are on the floor, so they're below the TV. Since the center channel content (voices) is also coming out of the right and left channels, the combination of the three speakers seems to average right about dead center of the screen. You get used to anything, but I didn't want to go to all this expense and trouble and then be annoyed by having the voices seem to be coming from somewhere other than the actors' mouths!So how did I do this? I went to the hardware store and bought shelf hardware. To be clear on what I'm talking about, search Amazon for "Knape & Vogt adjustable standard" and somewhere on the first screen you should see an inexpensive wall standard: an extruded U-shape with slots. If you can find a black one, BUY IT! I couldn't, and wasn't willing to settle for something that didn't match the black of the VideoSecu mount. For that matter, my TV, DVR, Blu-ray, receiver, AND my old TV stand are all black, as are my two subwoofers and all of my speakers and speaker stands for the surround and rear speakers. So black it had to be. So I bought white ones (the only one of the three that was already painted; I wasn't thrilled with the idea of having to prime them). And I bought a can of spray paint and painted everything black. I got a standard, which I sawed into two short pieces, and drilled holes as needed. I bought two shelf brackets. Search Amazon for "Knape & Vogt Mfg Co 6" White Shelf Bracket for 80 Standard". I bought 8" ones, and they come in other sizes. Figure out how deep you need. I probably would have been fine with 6", but I went with 8". Then buy or make a short shelf in the appropriate size. The standards will be just under 20" on center once they're attached to the VideoSecu mount. The shortest shelf they sold at the hardware store was 24", and it's perfect for my center channel speaker. I spray painted the standards, the brackets, and the shelf semi-flat black. If you can find black, that would be awesome and a lot less work, but good luck with that. Black shelves don't seem to be an interior decorator favorite. Who knew?The shelf thing took some thinking, engineering, and trial and error, but I'm very happy with it. The two shelf standards are cut to 9" lengths. If you look at the picture of the VideoSecu mount, you'll see that the two standards on it have holes in the top half and slots in the bottom half. This is how you attach your TV to the mount, with bolts that are included with the hardware set that is included with the mount. After I test mounted the bracket to the TV and saw where the bolts would be, I positioned the shelf standards above the bolt (and make sure they're also above the slots where the TV standard fits onto the mount rails. I didn't the first time and the bolts I used to fasten my shelf standard to the mount standard were in the way, so I had to cut my shelf standards shorter and redrill a couple holes. Save yourself that ordeal and pretest everything before you start cutting and drilling.) In case this isn't clear yet, the shelf standard fits inside the mount standard. The U of the mount standard is facing the wall, away from the TV. The U of the shelf standard is the opposite; it faces the back of the TV. They're narrower than the mount standard and fit fine inside. You'll hardly notice them once it's all assembled. The only thing left is to figure out how to fasten the two standards together. I measured and spent a lot of time shopping for bolts, washers, and nuts. Fun guy time. I'll take shopping for hardware over clothes any day! I recommend you use three bolts per standard. It's a very short standard, and I'm sure two bolts will hold just fine, but here's why I recommend three: However heavy your speaker is--mine is 13.5#, plus shelf and brackets probably make it 15-16#--it's light enough that one good bolt on each side would hold it just fine, I'm sure. But.... to keep it vertical and steady, you'll certainly want at least two bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. But what if for some reason the top one failed. Vibration worked the nut loose, or you just got a bad piece of hardware. Whatever. The weight of the speaker is going to put pressure on the shelf and shelf bracket to want to pull the top of the shelf standard away from the mount standard. If it succeeded in doing so, I can imagine a chain reaction of failures as the shelf standard might bend or break, or the speaker slides off and comes crashing onto whatever's below. Yeah, I know I'm paranoid. But I prefer to have a middle bolt on each standard, so that there is no single point of failure for either standard. If the top one failed, the middle one would still keep the two standards securely fastened to each other.I hope that's clear and hope it helps a few people solve a problem that I'm sure wasn't unique to me: namely, where to put your center speaker if you're using this mount. If it's not clear, ask away and I'll try to help you.