Your cart is empty.
Your cart is empty.Compatible with Briggs engine models 192402,192412,192417,192432,196402, 196432,196436,196437,196452,197402,197412,19E412 **All the applications indicated in this posting are for reference only, the part for sale ONLY replace the specific OEM numbers. If you are not 100% sure this is what you need, please find out engine model, series number, e-mail us to confirm before your purchase.
Gene D.
Reviewed in the United States on May 13, 2025
Worked for a Briggs and Stratton 196432 0163 industrial plus engine on a late 90s Troy Bilt Horse tiller, which I got off FB Marketplace.Prior owner broke off the cowl and self-retracting pull start. Screw/bolt holes were all intact, so gave this a go. Btw, they don't make the OEM part anymore. Everything newer has gone to this cone setup. You have to find one at a junkyard or through other means. It certainly beat paying $150-$200 for a refurbed replacement on online auction sites.Like others said, no instructions included. And the shipping box, I side the Amazon bag, was destroyed. But it was all intact. Total replacement time, due to me having to use on-hand tools, was about 1+ hours from shroud pull to first pull start.After removing the tiller cage, the shroud (4 bolts, two on top and two on either bottom side of the shroud), and clutch (put penetrating oil in and behind the clutch, waited a few min, wedged a screwdriver in the flywheel, grabbed the clutch with a pair of 16.5" straight jaw pliers, and rotated the clutch counter-clockwise)... broke free... smooth, no problem, no clutch damage (not that you need it anymore, but why damage a quality part?).Hand threaded the bolt included with the replacement on the crank to make sure it fit. It did. Removed the bolt. Used a multi-tool with a grinding wheel (I went through a number of wheels, but it's what I had on hand... you could use a hacksaw, but a grinder would make short work of this thing) and cut off the entirety of the smooth part of the crank, back to where the threads start... being careful not to touch the threads.After that everything was easy. Place the cone over the crank threads. Bolt the cone in place with a deep socket ratchet. Place rewind assembly on the shroud. Insert bolts through rear of housing so that the nuts are secured on the outside of the shroud... doing reverse, you risk the threads hitting the fly wheel. Put blue thread lock on the bolts. Thread on the nuts. Replace the shroud. Give 'er a rip. Worked flawlessly.Of note, the aluminum mesh spins inside the shroud. This is normal. It's a little cheap/janky-seeming at first, but you get over it quick.Is it OEM quality? No. But then again, Briggs and Stratton offers the same, exact replacement setup for a good deal more. The only difference is that their kits comes with instructions, which you can find online... but if you are thoughtful in your approach, you don't need instructions. After cutting/grinding down the crank shaft, the kit simply makes sense in how it all fits together.Gave fours stars though, as... come on... it can't be that hard to either include instructions (or a cheap card with a QR code pointing to online instructions/a generic how-to vid).Still solid purchase, which I highly recommend if your pull start assembly is a) missing or b) is so badly damaged that you need this part to replace it.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on February 28, 2025
On time shipping and worked. A little cut sheet would have been nice , but no problems.
JERRY HARDEN
Reviewed in the United States on May 13, 2023
Old one went to pieces
Bryce foffel
Reviewed in the United States on March 22, 2023
It goes on easy I wish Briggs didn’t use the little nuts and bolts, but after putting little lock tight on them they weren’t going anywhere 10/10 another nice part about it is it came with new flywheel cover, made it look a lot cleaner happy with purchase hopefully won’t have to buy another
Al
Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2023
After disassembling original shroud, and pull start parts, measured up new recoil assembly and it required the stub to be cut off crank. I removed 1-1/4" from the end of crank towards flywheel. Used a cutoff wheel on electric grinder. Deburred end. Installed new cup and screen. Using 22mm impact, tightened new locknut on crank. Next installed new pull start onto shroud with bolts provided using 8mm wrench and socket. Reinstalled shroud onto engine. My engine is older Briggs 8hp model 190402. Working great so far.
Linda McCormick
Reviewed in the United States on December 28, 2023
Can someone share the instructions for this recoil retrofit - please. I didn’t get any with mine. My drive shaft has a hex shape ( no threads). Not clear how this kit should attach
dave
Reviewed in the United States on August 29, 2021
had to buy two of these because no one said you have to cut the top of the crankshaft off to make it work
Grindstone
Reviewed in the United States on January 1, 2019
This worked well for the replacement. You will need to saw 1 to 1 1/8 off of shaft for this to work.Not a big deal if you have a sawzall or hand grinder. I would buy again.
Recommended Products